The Yukon River

The Yukon River is one of the largest rivers in North America. It begins it's journey a mere 15 miles from the Lynn Canal, which is a fjord off of the Pacific Ocean, and ends 2300 miles later emptying into the Bering Sea. The river drains an area of Canada and Alaska the size of Texas. Even from it's very beginning as it leaves Tagish Lake it is an impressive river. It played a major part in the Klondike Stampede of 1898 and remains a vital method of transportation for much of the unreachable territory of Alaska.

In 1898 as the gold seekers arrived in Skagway and Dyea, they faced the Chilkoot or White Pass trails which, if they made it over, left them at Lake Bennett near the headwaters of the Yukon River. There were then two choices, walk or mush out across the frozen lakes and down the river or wait for break up, which that year didn't occur until mid-May. Those that waited for break up then faced the task of building a boat. Most of the gold seekers had no experience building a boat much less surviving an Alaskan winter. But build them they did and when the ice broke up in May, nearly 7000 boats set sail heading down the Yukon River. The river was dangerous due to rapids which these novice captains had not idea how to traverse. Miles Canyon was the first, just south of Whitehorse the second spot was called Five Finger Rapids near the town of Carmacks. These two spots took many lives and tons of supplies to their depths. Today both spots are tame due to intervention by humans. Miles Canyon is subdued by a damn just beyond it that provides power to the Whitehorse area. Five Fingers now only has three fingersdue to the removal of one of the islands.
The Yukon River is glacially fed so it is not a clear, see to the bottom, body of water. It appears muddy all of the time though it varies depending on the amount of recently deposited silt that is suspended in it. Sometimes it has a beautiful blue green color, as the silt begins settling on the bottom, most of the time though it is the color of a mud puddle. Near Dawson City, it has had little new glacial silt added and it begins to look clear again. Dawson City was the ultimate goal of the men of '98. In '96 gold had been discovered just up the tributaries of the Klondike River, whose confluence with the Yukon happens in Dawson City. After Dawson City, the river slows and takes on the meandering quality the most high volume rivers maintain. It is out here to the west of Dawson City and throughout Alaska, that the Yukon continues to be a major source of transportation. During the winter it is a highway for dog mushers and snow machines but more importantly during the summer it is a freight thoroughfare. Most of the area traversed by the Yukon in Alaska has no roadway access, therefore cities such as Fort Yukon, which I visited last summer depend on planes and the river during the summer for goods. Most items come in by plane however large items like ATV's and snow machines will be transported up river shortly after break up from the port at St. Michael on the Bering Sea. The salmon also use the Yukon on their highway during the spawn. The Yukon is the largest example of the influence and importance rivers have throughout and area of the world where building a highway just isn't profitable nor logistically feasible.

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Finally Not Tired

It has taken me two weeks to get adjusted to the Holland America (HAL) way of life. I figured I had done a pretty good job preparing myself, working as much as possible and staying busy on my days off, so that the pace wouldn't get to me. Apparently there is no way to prepare other then to just jump in and do it. In the first two weeks I worked more then one hundred hours and there were many more hours that were almost impossible to clock. I slept in 10 different beds and an air mattress in my apartment in Anchorage, including moving hotels 3 times in 3 days while staying in the same town. I have had a 1:30 am and a 4:30 am wake call, the norm is about 6:00 am and the lights out is usually about 11:00 though more often then not it is earlier. I have heard complaints about dust in the hotel room in Denali (duh, you're in the wilderness,) having to use an outhouse (aka long drop) in a place that doesn't even have running water, the lack of animals outside the train, coach, hotel room, etc., long days on the coach (look at a map, Alaska is really big,) and many other wonderful comments. The best one was the guy that told me on the first day of the 12 land tour following his 7 day cruise that he just wanted to go home. I am sure there are more wonderful quips but let me stop while I am ahead.

Now don't think for a second that I don't love doing it or being in Alaska, let me tell you those reasons too. Seeing Mt. Healy rising up with the 5 am sun on it, riding the train over Hurricane Gulch and along the Indian River, being on the Taylor Highway for the first time, seeing 1898 come to life in Dawson City, following the mighty Yukon River through the wilderness, eating fresh caught salmon, seeing a cruise ship docked in Skagway with the mountains seemingly rising up on all sides, following the White Pass trail on a narrow gauge train, getting to know people from all over the world, hanging out with old friends and making a few new ones. Those are just a few of the amazing things I have done in my two weeks. Oh yeah, no longer being exhausted at the beginning and end of every day. Stay tuned for more.

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Sea and Air

My first tour started down in Seward and though I may really dislike waking up at 2 am to catch a coach down there, I really like the town. Half of our tours start/end in Seward, the main port for Anchorage. Oddly enough, despite it's name, Anchorage has very few ships dock there, the glacial silt prevents deep water boats from traveling up into the Cook Inlet. Anyway, last year I spent a bit of every tour in Seward and loved it. It has two distinct areas, one near the harbor and one near the Sea Life Center. Both areas have a nice little coffee shop to hang out in while trying to recover from getting up so early in the morning and one of them has WiFi access which is a good way to as the time. There is shopping in both areas though it is better near the SLC and both areas have great food. Of course, something that both have in abundance is amazing views of the mountains surrounding Resurrection Bay and the beautiful green glacial water.

While at the small boat harbor waiting for my guests to return from there Kenai Fjords Cruise, which had been cut short due to weather, I spied this mural:


It isn't new but I had lot of time to sit and look at it, so I thought I would share it with my viewers at home. It depicts the importance of both the underwater world and the above to the livelyhood of Seward.

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Walking to and fro

When I arrived at the new apartment I learned that my roommate had a bicycle for us to use. Now it isn't the greatest bike but it will keep me in shape for work in the fall. However, while working I walk back and forth to the hotel and downtown as much as possible, only giving in to cab usage if I am hauling a suitcase. The walk is about 20 minutes and in recent days I have made at least 2 trips downtown per day. Downtown Anchorage is laid out in a grid pattern so I change the route every time I make the trip. One of the routes takes me past the cemetery that dates back to 1915, when the city was first founded. The vista across the cemetery opens up onto the Chugach Mountains which sit right outside of Anchorage.
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Alaska Through My Eyes

Last year while I was working here I took lots of pictures of nature and the very obvious beauty of Alaska. I have been thinking about a focus for this year and I found it as I walked around Anchorage today. I am going to show you much smaller snippets of Alaska's building whether it be a piece of art, a huge mural or a striking building. This summer will be about Alaska from ground level. Here goes.

Leave it to me to start by showing the sign for a great bar in downtown Anchorage, the name is pretty amusing also. Humpy's is a great hang out with live music at times, big screen tv's, an outdoor patio, good atmosphere and lots of great beer on tap. I haven't been there yet this year but soon.

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Back in Alaska

I have arrived in Anchorage. After some late night packing and a restless nights sleep, I was up at 4:15 to get ready. KB drove me to the airport, with a stop at Starbuck's on the way, I had to do something to counteract the lack of sleep. The first flight was full and uneventful, while the second was late and empty enough that I got the bulkhead row to myself. Upon arrival in Anchorage I had to wait a while to get my luggage and in turn missed the shuttle to downtown and had to catch a taxi. One of my roommates that I hadn't even met, tried to work it to come get me but the car our house has access to every other week was in use. The roommates I have met so far are great and we are getting settled nicely into our apartment. This year we get to use our mailbox at the apartment, so hint, hint.

My address:
1320 Denali Street
Anchorage, AK 99501

The best surprise came about 25 minutes after I arrived at the apartment. My supervisor called to tell me that I go out on tour on Sunday. That was fantastic news since there are plenty of people that are sitting in Anchorage waiting for either their first tour or second and one lands at my feet 2 days after I arrive. Woohoo. Now the scary part...it is the longest, most expensive tour and heads out into the Yukon. That's right, I have yet to get out there and now have to lead a tour. Trial by fire, here I come.

Thanks for reading.