Eat, Walk, Drink, Walk, Drink Walk, Eat.

Anybody who has every traveled with the W's or myself knows that few things are as important to us as seeing, tasting and experiencing. I believe we travel well together because we agree that an army or travelers, travel on their stomachs. I would be hard pressed to find a better way to experience the culture of place then through what they eat and drink. We love to explore farmers markets and pedestrian shopping streets, tempting us into buying way more then we can possibly use while were are there. On this trip we had the added bonus of the Metro not being on strike so we could get to far flung places and from there wander about. On our second day, we ended up at the Place d'Italie and low and behold we found an amazing farmers market going on. The quantity and quality of all the foods put a summer farmers market back in California to shame. The market stretched along the sidewalk for blocks with meats, cheese, seafood, bread, pastries and incredible fruits and vegetables. After exploring, drooling and gawking there, we proceeded through a small neighborhood, stopping in for coffee in one place and bread at another. We later found lunch at a Belgian cafe that M had found on line, so it was beer and mussels to commemorate our trip last year. We had dinner back at the apartment, after shopping on our shopping street nearby. For the 4 days we would start out with a goal such as wander around Montmarte, visit the 7th arrondisement, walk along Rue Faubourg St. Honore. and then when we were done in that area we would head in a new direction, stopping in for vin chaud when we got cold or a coffee when we needed a pick me up. We wandered with purpose one day towards Pierre Herme to pick up some amazing macaroons. One day, we ate lunch in our neighborhood at a fantastic Crepe place that M had found. After I spend time in a city aimless walking I always feel like I know it better then if I have visited it's most famous museum.

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Photo credit - Artsy food shots by CF, who now wants to go by his new rap name, Baby Chezus.
Belgian meal shot by MW.

The Lights of Paris

Paris isn't called the City of Light for nothing. We had a great time exploring the city in the evenings, looking at the decorations and just taking in all the lit monuments. The blue Eiffel Tour is in recognition of France holding the 6 month presidency of the EU. Their term will end on December 31 and I just read that the Czech Republic will take over, we are headed to Prague in January, hopefully they will have done something slightly outrageous to celebrate. However, I doubt it can top the Paris style. I was excited to see it thinking it might be pretty cool, but seeing it live topped my expectations. The lights on the trees along the Champs Elysees were amazing, almost 2 miles of blue led lights. I fell in love with these cool lights and when we went searching for lights for our tree in Zurich we searched for them, to no avail. I have to give all credit for the photos to MW, not only does she have a much better camera than mine but she has a great eye for what to take. Enjoy.

Our Home for 4 Days.

One of my favorite parts of a trip is the planning and since I have discovered the great deal that an apartment is, the search is even more fun. I started looking for a place for us back in July and as always I started with vrbo.com, I had great success using them last year when I got our apartments for Paris and Barcelona. Once again I wanted to be based in an area of Paris that I hadn't stayed in before and wanted to good access to the Metro. Of course we kept our fingers crossed that it would not go on strike again. At one point someone asked me what I was looking for in an apartment and I could have given an list of thoughts however, my answer was more accurate, "I will know it when I see it." And I did. The place was suitable for 4 people, as long as two didn't mind bunk beds, a little alcove living room, a dining room/kitchen and the typical bathroom set up. This weekend, which kicked off my six weeks, was supposed to be a girls weekend for MW, my friend CR in Montana and me. Unfortunately, CR had to back out but CF came down for Zurich for the weekend so we were still 3 for part of the time. It was on the first floor of a building in the 2nd arrondisement near the famous Rue Montorgueil pedestrian street and darn close to 3 Metro stops. The price was perfect too. This part of the 2nd is just out of the tourist area but close enough to walk and near enough to the conveniences of the Chatelet/Les Halles transportation but out of range of the slightly seedy feeling of that area. We spent quite a bit of time shopping on the Rue Montorgueil, picking out cheeses, fruits, veggies and meat for our breakfasts and dinner. I was also able to resume one of my favorite experiences, getting croissants for breakfast every morning. For the most part we just loved walking up and down the street looking at the great shops that are foriegn to our life in the U.S. but the Parisiens stop into everyday without batting an eyelash.

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Photo credit - top right of the courtyard was taken by MW.

The Reason I Went to Paris

Many would say that traveling to Paris for a tenth time is excessive. I would say that there are always things to see there. The goal this time was to see the Christmas lights throughout Paris, especially the Champs Elysees. Last year, when we were in Paris, they had strung the lights on the plane trees that line the Champs Elysees but had not lit them yet. So, as this adventure developed, I figured that not only was it just as easy to fly into Paris and then train to Zurich but I would get my chance to visit in December. The decorations and lights were well worth lugging my big suitcase around the Metro, train and around the city. Everywhere we went the stores were decorated, the streets at the heart of each arrondisement were strung with lights and the crisp weather added to the spirit of the season. Everyone was dressed in scarves and hats and moving very quickly from store to metro. For some reason I have always thought of the true Paris as being a winter place, with these seasons flashing through my mind. Of course, the city of picnics in the parks and lovers sitting along the Seine is very real but somehow winter held my imagination. Maybe it is just that big cities are truly themselves in the winter, fewer tourists and people struggling to get through the day knowing that may only see the sun shine through they're windows. We would randomly run across trees positioned in groups with or without decorations in a small square just to let the passerby enjoy the season. Paris is lovingly lit anytime of year but the added Christmas lights give it an even warmer, friendlier feel. Trees like the ones above invite you in to enjoy a warm glass of vin chaud (mulled wine) and sit for a while to get warm. Even Paris most fabulous restaurant got in the season and decorated the facade with white trees and the blue led lights that are the trend of the season. We also visited the grand magasins or department stores to see what they had done. They created some over the top window designs but I was amazed by the beautiful tree that was in the Galaries Lafayette and stretched up to the glass dome. Of course, the big name boutiques couldn't be left out. Along Rue Faubourg St. Honore, where the high end shops are located we saw a few good decorations. One shop was putting a horse in its front window and though it was a mannequin, it was pretty impressive. Then there was the great Cartier window. The decorations are so Parisian in that they are over the top but completely stylish. They often use one color, rarely did we see the typical multi color string of lights and like the Cartier front the packages are all wraped in red. I am so thrilled that I finally got to see Paris at Christmas and got to share it with W's. Stay tuned for more photos and thoughts.

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Paris!!!!!

I can't even describe how happy I am right now. We just finished a breakfast of croissants, fruit, cheese, Nutella and coffee in our little apartment and are contemplating our day.

I arrived yesterday, after a long day of travel, though I luckily had an empty seat next to me on the plane. From Charles de Gaulle airport, I took the RER into Gare du Nord and started the search for the W's. I found them quite by chance as I just happened to look in their direction and there they were drinking coffee. It is was great to be reunited. We stored luggage and started wandering. We found a typical little cafe for a simple but good lunch, Croque Monsieurs for M & I, then continued in the direction of our little apartment. We found it and though we couldn't get in, it was nice to know where it was. From there we checked out the Marche Monterguiel (sic?), M. Debbonair was in heaven, cheese and meat shops, we would be back later to stock our apartment. The weather was so nice we continued on toward the Seine so I could get the vista that I needed. On the Ile de Cite we stopped for chocolate chaud and a quick warm up. It was now time for us to get into the apartment so we took the Metro back to get our luggage and ventured to our little home. Unfortunately it was still being cleaned, so we headed back out for the apartment staples, bread, cheese, wine, coffee and some fruit. Once settled in we tried out the internet, after some work by CF it is up and running, though not on my computer and then went in search of food and movement so that I would stay awake. CF wanted to see the 6th arr. so we went to Blvd. Ste. Germain. They have a Christmas market set up along the street, so we browsed and put our minds toward food. We found a cute little place called Le Pied de Fouquet on the same tiny street where we had lunch last year. Great, affordable dinner. M & I had the confit de canard and CF had the trout, which he switched with me about half way through. Coffee and a chocolate fondant topped of our meal. It was about 8:30 now and I was still feeling pretty good, so we headed toward the Eiffel Tower, I had to see it blue. We caught some glimpses of the top then as we came around the corner of Les Invalides we could see about 2/3 of it and wow, it is so much better in person then in the little live web cam I have on my home page. About then I looked at my watched and said to the W's, "it should start sparkling any second." As I finished that and looked back there it went, sparkling white lights against the blue lighting. I just smiled and thought that I couldn't be much happier then right then, being in Paris with my amazing friends. We still wanted to have a night cap so we headed to Rue St. Dominique, I street I know well from all my time staying in the 7th, because there tons of Christmas lights hung over the street. Deciding to continue a tradition we went into O'Brien's, a nice little Irish pub and had Guinness, cider and Irish Coffee. It was then time to head home, I was turning into a pumpkin. Back at the apartment we talked about what a great day we had and how happy we were to be traveling together again, then I slept and awoke feeling awfully good and ready to tackle another day in Paris.

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The Adventure Begins

In just about 12 hours I will be on my way to the airport, from there I fly to Salt Lake City and connect to Paris, where I will meet MW and CF to begin our six week adventure. We intend to lazily make our way through Paris, Prague and Budapest and see as much of Switzerland as possible. Getting the chance to have an extended stay in Europe has been a desire of mine for a long time and I am grateful to the W's for providing me the chance to make it happen. Of course, nothing ever seems to go as easily as you hope. About a month ago my mom was told that her metastatic bone cancer had returned and on Monday she went into the hospital. This will hopefully be a short stay in order to get her pain under control and shrink the tumor in her neck. Needless to say I have more motivation then usual to have a great experience this time and I will put extra effort into writing about this trip so that mom can enjoy it too. Good luck mom. Next stop, Paris.

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More Action Photos

What is the best way to annoy your sister? It won't be much longer before CEA doesn't let CMA get along with accidentally or intentionally making her fall down. I can't wait to see it happen.

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